Tag Archives: Svalbard

Bear Island

Bear Island is the first stop on the way north from Tromso to Svalbard, an archipelago well above the Arctic Circle governed by Norway. The southern end of Bear Island is a paradise for breeding birds like the Common Guillemot and the Kittiwake, a small and elegant looking gull that screeches its own name in an incessant cacophony.


On approach to Bear Island in the summer months you would hear thousands of birds screaming, “Kittiwake! Kittiwake!” in unison. When they fly off the steep cliffs of the island in great white waves, their opaque wings catch the bright sunlight and give you the impression of being trapped, in miniature, in the center of a snow globe that’s been shaken vigorously by a small child.


In addition to supporting about one million nesting seabirds, the island fools me into thinking that some higher power designed the landscape specifically for Zodiacs. It is one of the most incredible places to cruise in a small inflatable boat that I have encountered anywhere on the planet.

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With a sea cave 150 meters long and massive rock arches; the thrill of driving around this island leaves a permanent grin on my face. And not only is the stone architecture impressive, but the narrow rocky ledges are the ideal nooks and crannies for all the seabirds and the strata of the island are literally covered in birds fussing over their eggs.

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In the case of the Common Guillemot, the birds lay a single egg on a narrow shelf of bare rock. The egg is pear-shaped and will spin on a small axis in the event that it is disturbed. Evolution has ensured that it won’t crash down into the sea below. The kittiwakes however construct solid nests woven with bits of vegetation and seaweed and year after year the beehive-shaped nests grow a little higher.


In early June, the island was sprinkled with a powdered sugar layer of snow, but visiting again now in July, I see the green of the tundra taking hold and thriving in the rich guano-fed soil. I look forward to visiting again in a few weeks time when the chicks of all these hundreds of thousands of seabirds will be joining the throng.

IMG_9527 IMG_9537(Thanks to Prof. James Floyd for snapping these shots for me during our Zodiac cruise!)


Arctic Preparations

How do you get from Muck boots to cute party shoes in as few steps as possible?  As I’m packing for my next voyage consisting of nine weeks around the Arctic Circle in Svalbard, Greenland and Iceland, I reckon these six pairs of shoes, should do me for just about every occasion I’ll encounter. From hiking in the hills, to wrestling with Zodiacs in the surf, and from enjoying fine meals in the dining room, to working them off in the gym; I’m set to go.

How do you get from Muck Boots to party shoes?

How do you get from Muck Boots to party shoes?

So, as you slide your bare, tanned feet into those perfectly broken in flip-flops this summer, please think of me putting on my second pair of long underwear, my woolen socks and my insulated ‘Arctic Sport’ Muck boots.

Fully geared up in my foul-weather gear, I’ll be daily hoping to spot polar bears, walrus, beluga whales, narwhals, seals, orca, seabirds or whales of all varieties. My quarry will be found mostly in the sea ice surrounding parts of the Arctic Circle, or clinging to cliffs and coastal slopes along the land-sea interface. Here’s a little sampling of the summer’s game plan.

Photo by Pamela Le Noury

An Arctic Bearded Seal — Photo by Pamela Le Noury

And in the last few days of preparation, between family time, surf sessions, long runs and walks with the dog, I was researching one of the small Greenlandic towns I’ll be visiting in August and was surprised (in a sick, stomach-churning sort of way) to read that the average high temperature in August is just a hair above freezing.

Ah hell, bring it on. I’m prepared, ready to see some amazing wildlife, and my feet will be both warm and fashionable this summer…although…they will definitely never be both at the same time!